When you look at the part of the Netherlands, where the finest ingredients come from, Zealand wins with flying colours. It is a sparsely populated province, which is characterized by peace and quiet. Important characteristic features are salt marsh, water, polders, coves, beaches and dunes. They form an inexhaustible source of food. Think of Oosterschelde lobster, shrimp, eels, razor blades, oysters, mussels and cuttlefish. On land you can find asparagus, lamb, apples and raspberries. This abundance of products has contributed to the fact that two of the best restaurants in Netherlands can be found here. Close to the Belgian coast Oud Sluis, the famous estate of Sergio Herman. Unfortunately it is a penalty to drive from Amsterdam to Sluis by car. It is so isolated that it requires a very long journey. And as if the distance is not enough, work is always in progress along the road. At one point we decided on a try our luck at Inter Scaldes, since it saves us more than an hour drive. This restaurant has long been known beyond national borders. In the Netherlands, Inter Scaldes is a ‘dark horse’, and we were not really looking forward to eat there. The Belgian, French and Germans had, however, have seen it more clearly. It’s a very good restaurant with the corresponding class. The restaurant is part of a manor with beautiful, attractive rooms. The English garden is of great beauty, which is especially noticeable on a beautiful sunny day. The owners of this beautiful estate are chef Jannis Brevet and his wife Claudia. The first experience in Inter Scaldes was far from a punishment; it was on of the best diners we had in the Netherlands. From now on, no more prejudice. We have to see every restaurant for our selves. Today is sixth time we eat in Inter Scaldes our sins and have been already forgotten.
Tonight is a dinner planned. Due to the excellent weather conditions we decide to make a nice walk along the Oosterschelde. A walk in the beautiful nature with its smell of the sea stimulated our taste buds.
After the appetisers presented on spoons the diner continuous with a royal of egg with smoked eel and cauliflower. It has a pleasant rich flavour and the synthesis with the eel from the Eastern Scheldt is perfect. The first dish of the evening is a canard Beijing. A layer of Peking duck liver flavoured custard hidden beneath the layer or popcorn foam. On the side a brioche and a spoon full of mashed figs is served. It’s a light and refined liver, but remains strong characteristic taste of duck (lucky/happy) feet. The foam popcorn complimented the duck well. Filled with fig compote spoon must be combined with duck liver mousse. The beautiful acids (also sweet) of the fig compote give the course an extra depth and complexity. We experience it as a female-friendly foie gras course, since most of them are very filling. The subsequent dish consists of crab with laurel, white tomato cream, rice vinegar, parsley and drops of ink from sepia. Except that this is a visually beautiful dish it stimulates the mind as well. It is a modern interpretation of classic Crab mousse with tomatoes. No sophisticated, complex flavours on your plate, but a superb ‘one-dimensional’ taste. The combination of the salty and rich crabmeat with the sweetness of the tomatoes, crunchy and earthy taste of the laurel rice vinegar is delightful. De second surprise of the evening petoncles from St Malo, marinated with curry and an onion cream. The petoncles melted on the tongue and had a nice salty flavour. The marinade of onions and curry cream gave the refined taste of the petoncles a boost to make it a very tasty dish. It is unfortunate that petoncles are rarely found in restaurants. We continue with lemon sole with spring turnip mash, burned mustard, kombu sauce and champonzu. It is an optimal preparation for a fish with modest culinary value. It is a pleasant dish to eat but unfortunately not the same as the other creations. The next two dishes form the climax of the evening. First, a simple-looking dish, but with deadly precision prepared large langoustine (from Norway), white chocolate mousse and smoked over which is poured melted butter. The langoustine, which was superbly prepared, was impressive. The cream of white chocolate and the smoky flavour of the melted butter gave the langoustine more complexity. This time it’s earthy flavours that compliment the langoustine instead of frequently used acidity. But probably the biggest highlight was the simplest dish of the evening; asparagus, black truffle and a mousse of champagne. The asparagus naturally derive from Zeeland and are therefore superb quality. They are so softy prepared that they melt on the tongue. The black truffle is no stranger to us. For their signature dish, scallops with black truffles and cauliflower, the same truffles are being used. Only this time the truffle is ground into a strong paste-like substance. It is a heavy and powerful plate, but the champagne mousseline brings a little acidity to the dish, which is quite nice. There is a good balance between the three elements. The main course is lamb with Parmesan cheese and Pumpkin mash. Not bad, but personally we would have preferred a nice piece of fish. The high level of previous courses is not met. For desert three preparations of strawberries. The combination of strawberries and cumin is very convincing. After the meal we still receive an endless quantity of mignardises. It is a privilege to stay the night in one of the beautiful hotel rooms at Inter Scaldes.
The style of cooking of chef cook Jannis Brevet is a very refined. Tastes are often subtle but very tasty. Therefore it is possible to taste all the facets of a dish. As one of the few restaurants in the Netherlands, they are product-driven. Only the best products, and the combinations will always be added to let the main product to excel. Hostess Claudia Brevet is a highly skilled woman who does not miss any detail (even remembers all her customers). It allows anyone with a good feeling going home. For many years there are rumours that Inter Scaldes is nomination is for third star. After six visits, we can conclude that this would not be inappropriate.
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Biological duck liver with beetroot jelly and olive crisp
Rillette of whitefish with curry crisp.
pear foam with nuts and raisins
Ginger snaps of poppyseed and sesame
Slowly cooked egg with cauliflower and smoked eel
Peking duck cream with popcorn cream, cacao, a warm brioche and fig
North sea crab with laurel, white tomato cream, rice vinegar and parsley
Petoncles with marinated vegetables and union cream
Lemon sole with spring turnip mash, burned mustard, Kombu sauce and champonzu
Langoustine in smoked butter with white chocolate, mirin, parsnip, radish and lavas.
Asperge with black truffle and champagne mousseline.
Lamsback with parmesan cheese, fenugreek, pumpkin mash and caper
Strawberry desert with drained yogurt nutmeg ice, palm sugar, comino soup, brown rum, blanc manger rhubarb jelly and yogurt crisp
